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It is sometimes forgotten that the uniform is a testament to equality. At work and at war, the dress uniform has long stood as a symbol that all men are equal in the face of duty — sharing equal honour, valour, and truth — and this season the house of McQueen uses that tradition to take apart the class separations associated with the British heritage silhouette.

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The military jacket can become a frock coat, the donkey jacket a tailored luxury, the tabard part of a three piece-suit in floral jacquard, and garments can carry suggestions of flags and medals.

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City pinstripe is adorned with the word ‘Honour’, coats in workwear blue instantly appear as arguments for Regency elegance, a heavy army knit is emblazoned with that most English of blooms, the poppy.

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The collection re-animates the relationship between gracious dressing and male virtue. And it understands how that virtue is at the same time universal and classless, classic and subversive.

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In a time when the idea of the uniform is sometimes questioned around the world, McQueen’s menswear collection makes an argument for its revival as a vehicle of both unity and individuality.

Alexander McQueen (London Savile Row Menswear Flagship, 9 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PF)