Chester Barrie moves into the world of the unexpected with its AW14 collection.
Last week we were invited to meet Chester Barrie’s creative team at their Savile Row premises. With a reputation for creating beautiful formalwear, from this season onwards the brand will be turning its tailor’s eye to a broader product range, extending the style aesthetic to include more relaxed pieces, such as knitwear, casual outwear and trousers. But all the while, it is maintaining its commitment to quality and luxury.
Influences for the season include military menswear and riding clothing, but strongest of all is a Rat Pack theme, which has inspired this season’s presentation at London Collections Men.
Chester Barrie Savile Row AW14 Collection
The most eye-catching element of the collection is a range of eveningwear in lush cotton/cashmere/silk velvet and wool/mohair with bold shawl collars and turn-back cuffs. But it is the trouser range which is the most innovative. A five-pocket jeans style has been re-created in tailoring cloths while flat fronted trousers feature a subtle jetted half-frog mouth pocket, giving them a much cleaner shape.
Also of note are quilted jackets and gilets in rain proofed wool flannel and a golf jacket realised in grey wool. On a more formal level, jackets in pure cashmere have a drape and handle that provides a strong element of luxury. While suits in a lush flannel bring extra depth to the collection. Stand out coats include a Pea Coat and a Change Coat designed to be worn without a jacket. Highlight tones of teal and berry bring life to a winter palette of charcoal, camel slate and rich navy.
Chester Barrie is a gentleman’s tailor located at No 19 Savile Row, London. Founded in 1935 by English tailor Simon Ackerman, Chester Barrie was the first Savile Row tailoring house to bring ready-to-wear clothing to “the Row”, making a Savile Row suit within the grasp of a whole new customer for the very first time.
Lighter fabrics, innovative blends and a far softer structure have ushered in a more relaxed form of dressing, which Chester Barrie has embraced. From Autumn Winter ’14 onwards the brand will be turning its tailor’s eye to a broader product range, extending the style aesthetic to include more relaxed pieces, such as knitwear, casual outwear and trousers. But all the while, it is maintaining its commitment to quality and luxury.
Over the years customers have included Sir Winston Churchill, Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra, who were attracted by the brand’s classic tailoring, beautiful fabrics and fine attention to detail.
Today’s customers come from the worlds of business, finance and academia as well as the arts and media. Chester Barrie have been the official tailors for the Olivier Awards for the last two years dressing presenters, nominees and winners including Rory Kinnear, Mark Gatiss, Arthur Darvill, Dan Stevens, Hugh Bonneville & Robert Lyndsey.
Chester Barrie is working hard to reposition themselves as a modern tailor meeting customers’ needs for formal and casual wear. Their goal is to getting customers to understand that Chester Barrie are more than just suits, embracing a slightly more casual market while still offering quality and attention to detail.
Chester Barrie (19 Savile Row, London W1S 3PP)