“So much of what I do is led by drawing,” says Christopher Kane. “Yet in this season’s menswear I wanted the texture and materials to say as much as the graphics; the rough combined with the smooth.
There are elements such as the textured, over-printed tweeds and the graphic, collaged ‘bolster’ patterns and DNA cable designs of the knits. This season feels very much like a fully realised wardrobe; it is a very masculine collection with a real ease about it, driven by sportswear, techno fabrics and a new approach to tailoring, panelling and geometry.”
The graphic sensibility of the Christopher Kane men’s collection continues this season, but it is one with a much more 3D cognisance; equally informed by texture, silhouette and unexpected proportions as well as the shock of colour and pattern. Jersey in sculptural shapes with geometric panels and picture frame inserts predominates.
While paneling and an interest in the geometric are distinct signatures of the house, here they are fully realized for the masculine universe. Often featuring contrasting sportswear cover stitching, this is just one way that decoration and function merge in the collection.
Multi-coloured ‘bolster’ knits and ‘broken bolster’ prints, trims and embroideries are a motif throughout Spring-Summer, as is the signature safety buckle hardwear – applied to clothing as well as accessories this season. Featuring particularly as the reoccurring belt of the new summer trench, the safety buckle also appears on the new Christopher Kane training shoes, seeing their debut this season.
Tone-on-tone, ‘decaying’ Jacquard features, in suiting, shirting, technical-wear, bags and shoes, as well as morphing into ‘decayed’ discharge printing. It stands in both contrast and complement to ultra-light knitting with over-printing as well as this season’s rough, printed tweed in suiting.
Anew attitude to proportion, the unexpected and texture is also explored in the cable knitted baseball jacket and sweater. All falls in stark, textured contrast to the smooth, light reflective, technical outerwear that punctuates the collection.
Bringing together the notion of graphic visual perception with material experimentation, it fully rounds out this season’s offering.
Christopher Kane (6-7 Mount Street, London, W1K 3BH)