This collection celebrates the idiosyncratic twists that English men bring to the most formal of wardrobes.
The caddish flamboyance of David Niven, whose book The Moon’s a Balloon reveals that the actor out as much imagination into expressing himself in words as in clothing; the simultaneously aloof and chumpish charm of the British princes in their youth, in particular Charles, who inherited from this father a dapper way with the conventions of royal dress; the ability to combine checks of different scales and carry it off, so expertly demonstrated by Edward VIII.
These characters represented an enthusiasm for fashion among English men that freuently overlooked.
A style where to dress down for the weekend is to dress up; an understaed uniform whose military roots still shine in the bars buttons of blazer and whose eccentricities are expressed in the patterns of the tie and the pocket square.
‘It’s an aged-old cult of individuality whose heart still beats untouched in London’s Jermyn Street – home to traditional men’s clothing and grooming; home to dunhill, for over a century – and whose characters advertise their individual allegiances in the gang colours of the club tie.‘ -John Ray, Creative Directory dunhill
The show soundtrack fuses 808 State’s ‘Pacific State’ with its brass-band reimagining by Jeremy Deller and military-parade drumming – an aural analogue to the collection demonstarting the off-beat ways in which English men enjoy twisting their own tradistions.
Alfred Dunhill (48 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6LX)