AW16 heralds a change in pace from last Fall’s urban, dark and slick mood; but it is not about settling down, rather more settling in to the modern British gentleman’s lifestyle – presenting more casual clothes made for Country house parties and for exploring the streets of a foreign city, requiring the same level of refinement and luxury but in a cosy, comfortable and considered manner.
Established codes have been reinforced with a youthful edge, clean fresh styling and updated proportions.
Avoiding cliché country tweeds, a two piece suit in soft black and grey granite donegal is worn with a cashmere knit polo and bold knit scarf; taking the formality down whilst ensuring the look is still smart and put-together.
A navy checked car coat is worn with a textured wool knit tie and a tonal shirt, or alternatively a two button, single breasted jacket in winter white self-check is worn with white cotton/cashmere chinos and a wool polo neck. A double breasted camel blazer with chunky knit scarf and cream pants is worn open with insouciance.
CASUALWEAR & OUTERWEAR
G&H has established an aesthetic based on a continental language with a strong British accent over the past few years. Focussing on British-made, G&H has worked with UK mills to create unique statement fabrics including exploded houndstooth and large Prince of Wales checks.
Technical fabrics have been developed in Italy to ensure such pieces as the clay red waterproof-wool bodywarmer with down lining are as practical as they are stylish.
Richly textured knits in basket weave and twist-cable are a layering staple and worn under tailored sports coats and coats alike. Knit-on-knit is a fresh and contemporary way to layer either in matching the scarf with the sweater, or with sweater-on-sweater pairings. Knits have taken their inspiration from woven fabrics used elsewhere in the collection.
A youthful shearling-lined parka with fur trim gives a fresh twist on a weekend favourite and a shearling car coat is presented as an updated luxury investment piece. British-woven camel cloth is presented in two looks, a peacoat and a doublebreasted overcoat, both cut with versatility in mind to be worn either with a shirt and knit, or a chunky polo neck.
The camel has been inverted to sportswear instead of traditional business attire. The exclusive British-woven wool jacquard bomber jacket is a modern interpretation of a tweed jacket in a young, short style which is as perfect worn with beat-up jeans as tailored chinos. Old-school fabrics have been revisited, moving away from notions of stiff and coarse to a soft handle and drape.
The formal evening silk jacquard has become a signature of the House. Continuing our tradition of working with British silk weavers to create new patterns, this season’s foliate country jacquard in bronze comes in a relaxed double-breasted jacket worn with a cashmere/silk polo neck and black wool dress pants and a punchy contrast sock detail.
A grey flannel tuxedo and the houses’s iconic shawl-collar velvet jacket are taken country with the addition of a knit and chunky scarf.
SHOES & ACCESSORIES
Reflecting the adventurous spirit of the season, refined calf leather lace-ups and Chelsea boots have been fitted with a chunky Commando sole. The country lace-up has been pared down and beefed up. Rugged but still elegant these sit alongside smart sneakers in chocolate brown and black with a gum sole. Oversized cable-knit scarves worn with tailoring reflect a sporty country mood.
Gieves & Hawkes (1 Savile Row, London W1S 3JR)