Richly structured with a film noire quality, the palette is saturated and textural in charcoal, black, ink, plum and navy. The tone is mat with flashes of sheen.
The look is masculine and powerful, centred around outerwear and overcoats. Softer shapes and sumptuous textures in cashmere and double faced wool are trimmed with mink and dressed with Astrakhan.
For day the suit is elegantly broken, tonally mismatched in micro patterns of textured yarns in cashmere, silk and wool. Colour is moody and mixed up with the flash of a silk scarf or tie. Dress shoes are hand burnished dark maroon and navy over black. The attaché case is in plum crocodile.
The weekend is urban and dressed up in dark indigo and air force grey. Heavy cashmere knitwear is paired with a grey Nubuck bomber or a soft tonal Prince of Wales overcoat and grey crocodile lug soled shoes. The reefer is in aubergine cashmere, the pea coat in shearling.
Eveningwear is subverted with oversized herringbones and Prince of Wales checks morphing into rich shades of navy and claret worn with fine gauge knitwear or dark evening shirts. The formal coat is sharply tailored in dark burgundy Alpaca and black pony skin.
Gieves & Hawkes (1 Savile Row, London W1S 3JR)