For the Men’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection Jimmy Choo Creative Director Sandra Choi put the Rad into Trad by melding the codes of formal with the functionality of sports to create a seamlessly hyper-modern hybrid of the two.
To showcase the collection, Choi created a rule-breaking version of the traditional gentleman’s sporting club at with the motto: “Vive Sicut Audes” loosely translated as “Live the Life You Dare”.
The Jimmy Choo Sporting Club recruited some of Britain’s premier league skateboarders and BMX riders to put the collection to the test on a purpose built Jimmy Choo Sporting Club skatepark .
Sandra Choi said: “These sports are all about seeing the urban environment in a new way, with a creative disrespect, and then using it as a crucible for adrenalin and originality. We are very excited to see the collection put to the test by these radical athletes.”
With its dramatic vaulted ceiling and Edwardian raised viewing gallery, Jimmy Choo chose the Seymour Leisure Centre in Marylebone for the presentation. Reminiscent of a member’s club locker room, hard-wood oak lockers and benches were created to display the collection whilst waiters wore Jimmy Choo Sporting Club emblazoned polo shirts and chinos.
Key new styles include feature brogued uppers above a vulcanised sole (the Ross/Reggy), a Vibram-hefty penny loafer and paintspattered derby (the Leon/Lars) – or a mash-up of scuba boot and military (the Ezra).
In contrast, the “Opanca” technique moulded sole is fused with a sporting flocked upper (the Marcus). Chrome-hardware injection-moulded super high-tops come in monochrome, textured by weave or in a bold tussle of colour (the Zep). This is a collection for the 21st Century man who defines his own parameters.
Sandra Choi says: “The man of today – the man I see on the street – is a liberated man of action. He’s a gentleman of our time who is clued-up about the codes of the past, but is by no means bound by them.
The fault lines that used to run between the formal and the informal, the sartorial and the sporting, or the technical and the extrovert are rapidly fading. The only rule that counts now is that when you choose what to wear today, it has to be both fit for purpose and a true expression of your personality.”
To unify New Wave and Old School, Choi plays with a palette whose pillars are bold ‘Maliblu’, Pop Green and Canary Yellow. Decorative motifs range from the propriety of pinstripe to the so-wrong-it’s-rightness of stonewashed denim.
Existing Choo favourites are radically reinterpreted; the Argyle high-top has a meshed upper, the Vlad espadrille is refigured as a nylon Oxford, while the Belgravia acts as battleground between cracked-paint sole and houndstooth upper. The Foxley tassel smoking slipper is patinated by graffiti leopard or Memphis-touched graphic.
Jimmy Choo Men’s Store (35 Dover Street, London W1S 4NH)