The bespoke tailors of Savile Row, The Woolmark Company, and the select shirt makers and shoe makers associated with ‘The English Gentleman’ presented the modern face of British elegance at the wonderful Apsley House, hosted by The Earl of Mornington.
The presentation is a reminder of the fact that London is the world’s capital of masculine style, and has been for over two centuries. Through ‘The English Gentleman’, now in its 6th Season, Savile Row tailors and the gentlemen’s houses of St James’s continue to present the finest collections in the most iconic and exclusive settings in London.
To celebrate the bicentenary year of the Battle of Waterloo, The English Gentleman was styled by Jo Levin, Creative Fashion Director of British GQ and presented by Anda Rowland (Anderson and Sheppard), Sammy Aki, Lloyd Almond and Poppy Charles (Huntsman).
Guests were welcomed onto a LC:M building site specifically designed by Blonstein and manned by model construction workers, until the rooms within the house were unveiled. Guests were offered bespoke cocktails generously provided by Chivas Deluxe Blended Scotch Whisky as they were welcomed.
The event was a journey through the different facets of British men’s style during the period of the Duke of Wellington in celebration of the bicentenary of The Battle of Waterloo and the Royal Horse Guards, encompassing Merino wool in each of the tableaux’s created around the venue, highlighting Merino Wool yarns, fabrics and garments produced by some of the world’s most prestigious manufacturers and tailors which demonstrate their first class craftsmanship and heritage.
The collaboration with The Woolmark company seeks to raise awareness of wool’s natural performance properties and versatility across the seasons.
Participating houses including Anderson and Sheppard, Chester Barrie, Chittleborough and Morgan, Ede and Ravenscroft, Edward Sexton, Gieves and Hawkes, Henry Poole, Huntsman, Lutwyche, Maurice Sedwell, Richard Anderson, Richard James, Welsh and Jefferies each creating bespoke outfits modelled by over 50 models. With a strong military heritage, classic historical outfits were designed and unique bespoke detailing applied.
Accompanying shirting and accessories came from Budd, Emma Willis and Turnbull and Asser. Chelsea, Jodhpur, and riding boots were provided by Grenson, Edward Green, Schnieder respectively whilst Cleverley provided patent pumps and Gaziano and Girling colour matched the brown brogues in the Piccadilly drawing room.
Over 200 years ago the British regimental clothier documents reference Melton wool being used for military coats, waistcoats, trousers and breeches. Still used today for military garments and also produced today for updated military-style garments in lighter weights that are wearable by today’s consumer in today’s environments, less demanding of the historic requirements.
Cavalry Twill worn by military cavalrymen throughout history and made from Merino Wool from a worsted spun wool warp with a woollen weft, tightly woven and then mill finished to emphasize the double-twill lines on the face of the cloth. Cavalry Twill is selected for its soft handle, textural surface appearance, and the variety of applications and will see a strong upsurge in presence in updated design styles for A/W 15/16.
This season uses these historic fabric designs and weaves in iconic and updated styles to demonstrate the historic longevity and versatility of Merino Wool, focussing on Meltons, Tweeds, Cavalry Twill, Flannels, Luxury Suitings and Coatings.
Introducing innovation in technology and application through the addition of waterproof finishes to coats, wool/Escorial linings and a wool/cotton blend for shirting. The versatility and performance of Merino Wool is a key factor in why it has always been used across thecenturies for military uniforms, and is still used today.
This live display showcased the true versatility of Merino Wool and its abundance in garment uses, richness in colour, texture and softness. Extreme gratitude is expressed to the luxury weavers, spinners, knitters and merchants from the UK and Italy who have supplied Merino Wool fabrics; provided to the tailors as a contribution to the project for the creation of the range of iconic Merino.
Watch The English Gentleman A/W 15/16 film
Savile Row London Collections
Anderson & Sheppard (32 Old Burlington St, London W1S 3AT)
Budd Shirtmakers (3 Piccadilly Arcade, London W1J 9NP)
Chester Barrie (19 Savile Row, London W1S 3PP)
Chittleborough and Morgan (12 Savile Row, London W1S 3PQ)
Ede & Ravenscroft (8 Burlington Gardens, London, W1S 3ET)
Edward Green (75 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6NP)
Edward Sexton (6 Beauchamp Place, London SW3 1NJ)
Emma Willis (66 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6NY)
Gaziano and Girling (39 Savile Row, London, W1S 3QF)
Gieves & Hawkes (1 Savile Row, London W1S 3JR)
Henry Poole (15 Savile Row, London W1S 3PJ)
Huntsman (11 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PS)
Lutwyche (15 Clifford Street, London, W1S 4JZ)
Maurice Sedwell (19 Savile Row, London W1S 3PP)
Richard Anderson (13 Savile Row, London W1S 3PH)
Richard James (29 Savile Row, London W1S 2EY)
Schnieder (16 Clifford Street, London, W1S 3RG)
Turnbull & Asser (71-72 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6PF)
Welsh and Jefferies (20 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PR)