“Do not fear to be eccentric in opinion, for every opinion now accepted was once eccentric.”― Bertrand Russell
For Autumn/Winter ‘16, Turnbull & Asser exploits the contrasting elements of two different worlds. Inspired by a reading list that includes George Orwell’s ‘1984’, Ayn Rand’s ‘The Fountain Head’ and Robert Louis Stevenson’s ‘The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde’, they have created two conflicting protagonists, known simply as ‘The Artist’ and ‘The Architect’.
Their showcase juxtaposes the colourful chaos of ‘The Artist’ and the monochromatic simplicity of ‘The Architect’through an interesting blend of pattern and texture.
Blurring the lines between formal and informal, suits can be easily worn as separates to enhance pattern and textile combinations. Continuing their relationship with Fox Brothers, they have injected a riot of colour into both lightweight wool blazers and overcoats, while patterned wool bombers and contemporary waxed cotton jackets add depth to the collection. Rain wear is kept simple with exclusive weather-proofed shirting cloths in lightweight mac silhouettes.
The winter season proves the perfect excuse to extend their knitwear; signature bold colours are artfully muted through marl yarn compositions while their eclectic palette of cashmere gives the artist’s thrift-store wardrobe inspiration a luxurious twist. Electric indigo sits with soft magenta and sienna in cashmere and merino wools. New cable cardigan silhouettes and button necklines all work alongside to create wardrobe essentials.
Formalist shirting is inspired by architectural schematic sketches and emphasises the power of the simple check by playing with a micro-to-macro scale. Imagining the wardrobe of Brutalist architects, small introductions of stripped-back monochrome and moody navy reference our 60s and 70s archive.
On the opposing side, the Informalist designs add playful twists to classic poplin stripes and blue paint stroke jacquards, inspired by a bespoke order by Pablo Picasso. Colour is evident with rainbow splashes over checks, lightly brushed cottons and luxury denim/cashmere blends.
The neck tie has become a canvas for creativity –brought to life are an incredible array of motifs including intricate drawings of London’s most iconic buildings alongside psychedelic scribblings. The humble pocket square has been elevated to a work of art through the mega-square, an elaborate 140cm²blend of wool and silk that can be worn as scarves.
To complement the collection, their Nocturnalist elements give a platform for the most exclusive of silks. Exquisitely designed in a palette of black and midnight blue, alongside three ready-to-wear silhouettes, each piece is made in limited numbers with fabrics reserved for special bespoke orders. Smoking jackets in jacquard shirting have been created as an alternative to the traditional white dress shirt.
Turnbull & Asser (71-72 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6PF)