From the obscure Dandy in Aspic to the iconic Ipcress File and Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy, sharp eyed tailoring references can be found throughout the collection to further explore Turnbull & Asser’s concept of Formalist and Informalist dressing but with the introduction of eveningwear for 2015, known as The Nocturnalist.
The Formalist shirting has a simple fresh colour palette which disguises the complexity of the “code” in their weaving. Smudged stripes accompany deconstructed and re-matched checks with familiar silhouettes being subtly updated. Maintaining their colourful Jermyn Street roots, the characteristically bold colour palette has been put through a “foggy” London filter to give it an authentic Cold-War period feel for wardrobe staples such as coats and tailoring.
Taking inspiration from Turnbull & Asser’s vast archive,intricate tie weaving reflects the imperfect patterns of this period alongside contemporary geometric repeats and modern micro neat patterns whilst using captivating game playing imagery.
Pocket squares have become part of an ever-unravelling puzzle, as code breaking and game playing imagery are hidden and only apparent on closer, more dangerous, inspection.
The Informalist collection encourages the opportunity to build beautiful textured layers. Shirts explore a range of bold colours, in contemporary settings, that are softened with muted melange tones and brushed for warmth. A new line of cotton/cashmere blended yarns are included for a luxury edge to The Informalist collection presented in shirts and pyjamas.
Softly tailored blazers are invitingly tactile with tweeds and wool corduroys given a new lease of life with exclusive designs from the best British and Italian mills.
Bi-colour yarns create new interest in cable sweaters with a comforting chunkiness that makes them a viable alternative to outerwear on milder autumn days.
Less discreet, and in a nod to the often flamboyant master criminals, Turnbull & Asser introduce an eccentric array of exquisite woven silk smoking jackets, in a seductively smoky palette of Black, Midnight and Deep Burgundy contrasted together with sharp white dress shirts.
The single-breasted jackets, in shawl or peaked lapel, are all made in the London tailoring workshop and constructed in woven silk jacquard patterns. Ranging from vintage micro repeats taken from the 50’s dress archives to the game-playing and spy motifs reflecting the season’s theme. All pieces are limited edition, adding to the air of exclusivity in the collection.
Sitting alongside the smoking jackets there is an equally intriguing selection of luxury woven silk gowns.
Turnbull & Asser (71-72 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6PF)