“Sometimes I get the opportunity to step outside the maelstrom, also known as London, and observe my surroundings at a different pace.
I see a city full of inhabitants obsessed with time; keeping it, losing it, making it, wanting to turn it back or racing against it”.
-Anonymous note found written inside the cuff of a bespoke shirt c1903.
Using society’s relationship with time as an inspiration, they continue to explore the evolution of English style for Spring Summer 2016.
Playing with the meaning of being English today, this season they have created a new visual language of colour and pattern, mixed with multi-cultural heritage and influences. Featuring Aztec, African and Japanese prints and jacquards, the collection draws on diverse inspirations that inform and interrupt the traditional textile designs synonymous to Jermyn Street.
Styling cues are a mix of contemporary and Edwardian, blurring the lines between the Formalist and Informalist concepts, creating a new expression that intertwines the ideas, rules and boundaries around acceptable attire for the English gentleman.
In recognition of certain timeless fabrics, true indigo cloths, rare Sea Island cottons and knitted silks add to the luxurious and eclectic elements throughout the collection. Keeping with the brands origins, classic regimental and club colours are mixed with new indigo and light khaki shades, alongside mulberry, apple, tulip and tangerine to accomplish a warm seasonal palette.
Obviously shirts are their first love and they continue to innovate with their exclusive designs and modern finishing techniques, including a new cotton codenamed “Diamond Standard”. Originally developed for one of their most illustrious customers, who wanted to recreate the hand-feel of one of his well-loved shirts, it is rivaled only by Sea Island cotton for comfort.
Even as Jermyn Street stalwarts they bend their own shirt-making rules to reintroduce the Edwardian etiquette of the removable collar, in eye-popping Bengals. Stealing from the Bespoke archive, Pyjama-style resort shirts are re-imagined in linen blends and indigo patterns. Even their original woven Polo shirts, from the 1920s, are realized in new knitted oxfords for laid back, and well travelled, elegance.
Finally, breaking the rules of traditional tailoring, and still challenging the norm after 130 years, the brand takes a bolder approach to suiting. Featuring shawl collar linen lapels, horizontal stripes in contrasting textures and 100% raw silk sports jackets. New shape waistcoats are introduced and worn in contrast to its suit partner for a play on three-piece perceptions.
Turnbull & Asser (71-72 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6PF)