Turnbull & Asser was established in London in 1885 and has stood proudly as Britain’s leading shirt maker and men’s outfitter since that time. Their shirts are crafted by expert, skilled craftspeople, all of whom are based in England.
Unlike others who might claim the same thing, ‘Made in England’ means exactly that for Turnbull & Asser, and always will do. They carefully select fabrics and use traditional techniques to ensure fit, comfort, style and durability.
They established their shop on Jermyn Street in 1903 and since then they have retained everything that makes this distinctive area of London, and their shop, unique: warm, discreet, personal service, exceptionally skilled and knowledgeable staff and unparalleled quality.
Turnbull & Asser on Jermyn Street
Throughout their 130-year history their customers have come from the very highest echelons of society and their clientèle is as illustrious now as it ever has been. A proud holder of a Royal Warrant from the Prince of Wales for shirt making, they have dressed world leaders, politicians, royalty, film stars, and style icons – including James Bond. In fact, thanks to Turnbull & Asser’s extensive archive, costume designers everywhere know they can be relied upon to dress cinema’s most recognisable characters in the most fitting way for their time and temperament.
A dresser of the world’s most eminent men, Turnbull & Asser is ultimately a supplier of fine, hand-crafted shirts, ties and accessories to the discerning men of the world. Men with individual style, taste and an appreciation for heritage.
Their AW14 collection is really utilising the idea that Turnbull & Asser is the Peacock amongst the Pigeons of conformity, the new collection centres on the battle between one man’s wardrobe playfully entitled, “The Formalist versus The Informalist”.
Playing to the strength of the brand, the archive has been exploited, specifically designs from the 1930’s for the bold use of pattern during a period that has been regarded as quite a sombre time. Extreme white cutaway collars, fresh bold stripes and big knotted silk ties, with complimentary pocket squares draw attention and dare you to wear them.
Re-instating Turnbull &Asser’s classic formula; of clashing colour and pattern is key to The Formalist. With colour partnerships heavily influenced by medal ribbons we see with Aster Purple with Imp green; Tulip red with Golden yellow; and Turquoise with Marigold orange, all anchored with Navy. These colours will definitely part the clouds, scare the rain and melt the snow of winter. More traditional ideas like club stripes and paisleys patterns are deconstructed and amplified to sit side by side with pieces inspired by a modern London sky-scape.
Finally tailoring is used as the frame for the ‘artwork’ of the shirt and tie and the suits; in classic navy and grey, come alive with the rejuvenated archive colour palette.
For The Informalist outfits are as carefully curated, neat and refined, with cautiously selected textures and patterns that can be expertly layered to become the ideal complement to The Formalist’s weekday attire. This is Turnbull & Asser taking back ‘English Style’ from the American, Italian and Japanese pretenders and showing how even at the weekends, the Turnbull & Asser man is never off-duty.
A tighter injection of colour is extracted from the main palette as magenta, imp, orange and turquoise are softened with light grey melange herringbone textures and oxford weaves. In Ties the sheen of silk is muted by blending wool and cashmere and worn with neat button down collars, accompanied with scarves and ribbed knitted sweaters.
The all-conquering sports jacket is the finishing piece to The Informalist’s ensemble, robust and traditional corduroy rubs shoulders with intricate needle cord jacquards and colour speckled Donnegals in subdued tones. In conclusion AW14 is not a re-invention of the Brand, but merely a translation of the original text for a contemporary audience.
With this collection Turnbull & Asser aims to protect and cultivate the perfect balance of elegance and eccentricity.
Turnbull & Asser (71-72 Jermyn St, London SW1Y 6PF)